The title is the leading strapline of a national campaign which is currently promoting New Zealand wines, and it is not entirely by accident that today is NATIONAL SAUVIGNON BLANC DAY! Yes, there is such a day! And it really is today. I don`t blame NZ for owning it, either. As a country I can`t think of another so committed to the grape variety. A massive 67% of New Zealand`s vineyards are given to the variety, and 85% of exports. And most of this comes from just one region. You guessed it: Marlborough. At any rate I suspect you guessed it, because Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is a household brand nowadays. This, after decades of focused and effective promotion to their three key export markets, UK, USA, and Australia: “Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is `Crisp, thirst-quenching, and dry`”, simple messaging which hit home. We all know what to expect when we ask for a glass of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, don`t we? The pungent aroma of gooseberry and passionfruit, the racy acidity. Moreover, their Sauvignons today are more nuanced than ever. Winemakers have honed their craft. Many of them nowadays are site-specific wines which speak of their terroir, detailed and precise, some even age-worthy wines. The Sauvignons of Marlborough`s Wairau sub-region tend to display tropical and citrus fruits. You may smell, or taste, any of a number: passionfruit, mango, guava, white peach, gooseberries, lemons, and limes; and these are sometimes imbued with elderflower, or the stony alluvial gravels whence they came. By contrast, the Sauvignons Blanc wines of the more southerly sub-region Awatere Valley, which is colder, drier, and windier than Wairau, are most notably herbaceous, with notes of cutgrass, green pepper, and tomato leaf, and sometimes an additional coastal salinity. Most Marlborough wines you`ll find display characters across both flavour spectrums, a balancing ballet of tropical, citrus, mineral, and herbaceous characters, the grape instantly recognisable, with mouth-watering acidy. Wines to match with seafood, feta & goat`s cheese, asparagus, and salads. Oh joy! Happy Sauvignon Blanc day, everyone.
Next week, Friday 7th, we will be celebrating the wonderful wines of New Zealand with a virtual ZOOM tasting. Details can be seen on the What`s On page of our website if you would like to join us www.thewinecentre.co.uk. The evening aside, we will be promoting New Zealand and its wines for the whole of May, one way and another, with a special focus on Sauvignon Blanc wines which represent by far New Zealand`s greatest export. If you think one SB is like any other, you are mistaken! We will also be promoting NZ`s diversity in respect of wines produced from other grape varieties, starting with the most important red wine varietal, Pinot Noir. ALL THIS, in the month ahead. Today, by way of brief introduction, I thought I would take readers back to NZ`s first wine beginnings, when, in 1819, a Brit called Samuel Marsden, a priest of the Church of England in Australia, gifted New Zealanders with “Vitis Labrusca” vines, as well as Christianity. The wine, fortified and sweetened, was mostly used for sacramental purposes. It was not until 1840 that “Vitis Vinifera” vines arrived in NZ, courtesy of the earliest French settlers, these being a new species of European vine which yielded better quality wines, with Sauvignon Blanc among them. But then, in 1885, they were all wiped out by Phylloxera, the same sap-sucking aphid which destroyed European vines thirty years earlier. Eventually the vines were replanted on American Phylloxera-resistant rootstock, but a generation was lost, and then prohibition lobbyists did their bit to hold back the wine industry another fifty years. It was not until the 1970`s that quality wine production started again in earnest, just as the motherland cut the umbilical cord, setting her colony adrift. At the time 50% of NZ`s exports were to UK, so it was yet another big setback. Nonetheless, sheep farming in Marlborough was steadily replaced with viticulture and by 1985 one European wine critic cited Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc as being World`s Best Sauvignon. New Zealand, in wine terms, was about to take on the world.
2020 will be remembered for the struggle caused by Covid 19. But for one Englishman it will also be remembered for a small miracle which took place in his vineyard, in the south of France. Tom Hills, of Gt Horkesley, Colchester, has these past years, been producing his own artisanal organic wines in France`s Saint Chinian region of Languedoc. It hasn`t been an easy road, but he has been brave, and inventive, facing many challenges on the way; Covid just one of them. Another of his challenges has been working within the Saint Chinian winemaking regulations, which he has done, diligently, all these years, in the making of his Rosé and three red wines. But this run of adherence finally came to an end during the making of his 2020 vintage Rosé wine, when Tom found he could not be restrained any longer and broke with the rules. As a result, he has been excluded from using both the domaine name, and the Saint Chinian appellation, on the 2020 vintage label, and it is (in his words) “plain old `Vin de France` this year”. Except it really isn`t. Because it`s by far the best Rosé he has made to date. In fact, it is a master class in Rosé wine production, and therein is the small miracle. Tom, loving all things organic, has always endeavoured to make wine using natural yeasts from his own vineyards and winery, but it`s a tricky business, and he has time and time again had to fall back on the use of cultured yeasts to complete the ferments. That is, until the making of the 2020 Rosé, when he successfully carried out a 100% indigenous fermentation. Ironically, in the year he was stripped of his appellation! The result, a beautifully- balanced pale pink wine with fresh, delicate white peach, both complex and thrilling. That the legislators of Saint Chinian won`t grant him either domaine status, or their appellation name, this year, is their loss, I suggest, not his. Well done, Tom. Domaine La Lauzeta Corteza Rosé, £18.99 per bottle, now in stock.
A whistle-stop tour of Piedmont, Italy
Most people in the wine trade think of the Piedmont region of northern Italy as the home of Barolo and Barbaresco. These are red wines produced from the Nebbiolo grape – big, structured, brawny beasts, which, with age, develop an orange hue and complex, defining characteristics of roses, leather, and tar. The best of them, beguiling and highly valued, count amongst the most expensive in all of Italy. The English gentry would enjoy such prize bottles with their game birds. By contrast, stylistically, the Piedmont region is also home to the famous white wine Gavi di Gavi, produced from the Cortese grape. These wines are pale green and aromatic, with crisp, tangy flavours on the palate. They are considered by many to be the ultimate seafood wine, with zesty, mouth-watering acidity and tropical fruit notes. Basically, if you like good Sauvignon Blanc, you will LOVE Gavi. Every good wine merchant has at least one, and ours is La Giustiana `Lugarara` Gavi di Gavi 2019, £19.99 per bottle, which combines green apples with white peach and lime zest in perfect balance. The Italians are very good at producing wines to go with their local foodstuff, but they are also good at producing sweet palate cleansers. We stock three of the very best of Piedmont, each low in alcohol, aromatic, and super-fresh: 1) Fontanafredda `Moncucco` Moscato d`Asti, a straw-yellow wine, slightly sparkling, of the Moscato grape, sweet, floral, with bright notes of peaches & pears (5.5% Alc), £13.99 per 50cl bottle; 2) Contero Brachetto d`Acqui, a beautiful salmon pink wine, slightly sparkling, of the Brachetto grape, bright cherries & violets, bittersweet (5.5% Alc), £20.99 per bottle; and 3) Banfi Rosa Regale Brachetto d`Acqui Spumante, this one fully sparkling, a deep ruby colour, with aromas of strawberries and rose hip, bittersweet (7% Alc), £22.99 per bottle. They also make perfect accompaniments to pastries, and strawberries. And according to legend, Mark Anthony gifted Cleopatra the first ever Brachetto wine, believing it to be an aphrodisiac. Perhaps that is why these wines are so popular at weddings. Cheers everyone.
Chakalaka is a South African hotpot which originated in the townships. It`s a throw-it-all-in-the-pot tomatoey, spicy bean soup, a staple of the African peoples. The word Chakalaka, originally of Zulu origin, itself implies togetherness. It is depicted by the image of friends and family sitting around a big pot of hot soup. Now, in 2021, I am delighted to introduce readers to a new interpretation: a Chakalaka shared bottle of delicious South African wine! And what better than one with lots of grapes thrown into the mix, especially when your house name is Spice Route. The grapes, from Swartland bush-trained vines grown on shale and red clay, are low-yield and intensely fragrant. Indeed, Spice Route Chakalaka, Swartland 2016 is a joy to behold. A complex, full-bodied red wine made from 36% Mourvèdre, 22% Syrah, 13% Carignan, 11% Grenache, 9% Petite Syrah and 9% Tannat grapes. The final, unmistakable ingredient thrown in the pot, a dose of American and French oak to season. The result: A deep ruby red wine, with aromas of red, blue, and black fruits, spiced with clove, white pepper and vanilla. As the wine evolves in the glass, more aromas and flavours unfold, generous and complex. In the mouth the wine is intense, and velvet, brimming with vivid notes of berries and spices. The finished wine a delicious and harmonious sum of many parts. Spice Route takes the sharing sentiment one step further. They refer to their vinous Chakalaka as reflecting the Rainbow Nation itself, the essence of all that is good about cosmopolitan life in today`s South Africa. Its cultural diversity, its vibrancy, its energy. And though this hotpot of humanity is fraught with problems still, they believe it represents the stuff of dreams. Nelson Mandela once said: “It always seems impossible, until it is done”. Well, a wine like Chakalaka, impossible even a decade ago, is done, and ready to go for just £18.99 per bottle. Cheers everyone!
Michel Chapoutier’s wines from France`s Rhône Valley are amongst the most highly acclaimed wines in the World. The Chapoutier family have been making wine in the Rhône Valley since 1808, but it is since 1990 when Michel Chapoutier took over that the wines really began to speak of their origin. In large part this is down to Michel`s assiduous and insightful selection of vineyards, but also his meticulous methods of farming, using organic and biodynamic principles, coupled with minimal intervention in the winery. His goal is not just to produce the best possible wine, but to ensure each is individual, characterised by its own sense of place. What the French call: “Le goût du terroir”. Their labels deserve special mention as well, because, since 1996, all Maison M. Chapoutier labels feature the wine information written in braille. This is a tribute to Maurice Monier de la Sizeranne (1857-1924), the inventor of the first abridged version of braille and founder of the Valentin Haüy association. Haüy was founder, in 1785, of the first school for the blind, which was later, in 1819, attended by Louis Braille himself. Maurice Monier de la Sizeranne, blinded at age 9, went on to be one of the most significant influences in the movement to support the blind. A single, precious vineyard bears his name today on the famous hill of Hermitage: Monier de la Sizeranne Hermitage. We are delighted to offer oenophiles, collectors, and wine hobbyists, the chance to buy a mixed case of twelve M. Chapoutier wines which will include a single bottle of the flagship Monier de Sizeranne Hermitage 2015, usually £87.00 per bottle, offered now as part of this mixed taster case for just £45.00. The full case of twelve (7 red, 4 white, 1 rosé), will come with tasting notes, delivered to your home for £225.00. Email your order, or enquiry, to email@example.com . FREE DELIVERY. Offer ends 16th April 2021.
www.thewinecentre.co.uk Tel (01206) 271 236 Opening hours 10am-6.30pm Monday-Saturday
Yesterday I was reminded of Oscar Wilde`s The Nightingale and the Rose. It was a 2013 vintage New Zealand Pinot Noir, a wine transformed, in just a few years, from bright, fresh, and red-fruited (I remember it as a three-year old), to forest floor, damson, and blackberry. It was delicious, but probably approaching the end of its life, I felt; it had a caramelized note on the finish, scrummy, yet telling of its demise. It occurred to me how so many wines in the last throws of their lives can be at their most expressive, and beautiful. As though the wines have saved the best of everything, until the last. Which made me think of the nightingale. In the story, the bird sings his most beautiful song at the time of his death, having thrown himself on the thorn of a rose. He gives his life willingly, for love, in a glorious crescendo. This blood-red (slightly browning) Pinot Noir sang such a song to me yesterday. A most poignant moment it was too, sitting in my garden porch, the liquid swishing in my Riedel glass, a bare thorny bush by my side. The promise of roses. Happily, this wine still has another six months or so, I`d say. Plenty of time to pop another bottle. “Rapaura Springs Reserve, Marlborough £22.99”. Another bird said to sing a glorious song in death is the swan. So, it is to the swan, then, I look to our 2015 white wines, and especially to the Chardonnays. These are spectacular right now, golden yellows with silky-soft fruits; and I know the closer to death they get during these coming Summer and Autumn months, the more magnificent they will be. Even as they turn to amber, toward the end, I know some of them will sing the beautiful, melancholy song of the swan; and such rewards, I suspect, will inspire poetry. One such beauty is Chile`s “Lot # 5 Leyda Chardonnay, £24.99.” Already it is displaying honeysuckle, lemon curd, peach, and brioche. I can`t wait for its Swan Song! Cheers everyone.
The French term le goût du terroir translates literally to the taste of the soil, however, in wine-speak, taste in this context encompasses aroma as well, and terroir alludes not only to the soils from which the vines sprang, but the influences all around; all the elements involved in the making of the wine, the nature of the soils and the fruit, the sunshine hours or lack of, as well as the hand of the winemaker who brings everything together to give a wine its sense of place. It`s how a connoisseur of wine can taste a wine “blind”, and pinpoint the wine`s identity, sometimes narrowing it down to a single estate and vineyard. However, not all wines have a sense of place. Sometimes wines are so stretched they could come from anywhere. High yielding, bulk-produced, under £10 bottles, almost always fall into this category. They can be well made, and even typical of the style and grape, but rarely of place. Next category up, between £10 and £15 bottles, you are likely to find more concentration, with length as well, and if you are lucky terroir. But it`s not until you spend £15 plus on a bottle that you can consistently find wines with typicity, depth of flavour and terroir. I have dedicated this column for the next month or so to the £15-£20 category, and today`s example perfectly demonstrates the meaning of the term goût de terroir. Domaine Faiveley Pinot Noir, Bourgogne 2018 (France) is a classic cool-climate red wine produced from small thin-skinned just-ripe Pinot Noir grapes grown on a limestone ridge in burgundy`s Côte d`Or. The wine is a pale, translucent, star-bright cherry colour. It is of medium weight, with an elegant body. The wine has fragrant scents of fresh red fruits and a hint of oak from 12 months oak aging. The palate is intense and savoury with defining mineral notes and lively acidity, beautifully balanced. Darker fruits evolve in the glass, suggestive of its Côte de Nuits origins within burgundy`s Côte d`Or; and crunchy, youthful tannins turn to soft fine grain. How delectable!
The satisfaction a good bottle gives is reward enough for the investment, I`d say, but when you consider how you are helping the wine producer, it`s ever more precious. Think of the family-run winery, the passionate winemaker committed to sustainability, the South African winemaker who can barely afford to pay his pickers this harvest. In past weeks I have written much about why I think the £15-£20 per bottle category represents the best possible value. This is surely the best of reasons to be drinking them. Because the producers of these wines need our support, and we, as consumers, need to ensure their longevity. That old phrase again: “Use them; or lose them!” Aspiring for best possible quality makes sense, economically, only if there is a sure, growing market for it. Imagine a dwindling market of such wines, less and less talent getting into winemaking, less individualists making crack wines, less investment in fine wine, and the subsequent reduced choice for the consumer. It does not bare thinking about. We all recognise that food grown sustainably and qualitatively costs more, well so it is for producing good wine. If we are to enjoy excellence and diversity in wine, then those of us who can, should be putting our hands in our pockets, and in doing so, to reap the benefit both now and in the future. Take this wine, produced with organically grown grapes in France`s Rhone Valley: La Famille Perrin “Nature” Cotes du Rhone Blanc, France 2019. A blend of 50% Grenache Blanc, 30% Viognier, 10% Marsanne & 10% Roussanne grapes. It is produced meticulously, sparing no expense, borne of hard work and passion. For our gratification. The result: Bright stone-fruit characters and a moreish, creamy palate. Simply divine. The world a better place for its existence. Surely better buy one of those, at £16.99 in our shop, than two or three of another for the same spend, likely as not chemical-imbued, barely sustainable, and, frankly, not very nice. That`s my view, anyway. Cheers everyone.
Ladies and gentlemen
“The Big Friday Night In” is back, starting on the
As before, pick-up your takeaway from the trailer in our car park Fridays between 5.30 and 7.30pm
Shop shuts at 6.30pm so if you would like to pick-up our matching wine, be sure to get here early.
Joining Emma Bennett in the trailer this time will be chef Luke Pickman who has had over 15 years’ experience in the industry. Luke`s passion for cooking started from an early age, inspired by his grandparents` enjoyment of growing and cooking their own produce. Luke loves to express his creativity through interesting menus, using local, and fresh seasonal produce. We hope you will give him a big welcome to Gt Horkesley.
An exciting seven-week programme, with Kathy`s matching wine recommendations.
Food pre-orders to:
Mob: 07587 196 496
Week 1 – 19th March
Seafood Marinara with prawns, mussels, squid and octopus.
Vegetable Marinara (V)
White Chocolate Mousse
Alba Martin Albarino, Rias Baixas, Spain 2017, £16.99
This clean citrus Albarino gives pear and white fruit aromas on the nose. It is a dry, medium bodied white wine, with balanced acidity. Although those white fruits are found on the palate there are mineral and stone qualities in addition. Simply delightful.
Week 2 – 26th March
Traditional Greek Moussaka served with Olive & Feta Salad and Pitta Bread
Roast Vegetable and Lentil Moussaka served with Olive & Feta Salad and Pitta Bread (V)
La Bascula “The Charge” Tempranillo Garnacha Rioja, Spain 2018, £13.99
A vibrant red with cherry and plum characteristics. Aged for 9 months in French & American oak this Rioja shows a wonderful purity of black cherry fruit and well-balanced spicy oak with a touch of coffee and dark chocolate. Divine.
Week 3 – 2nd April (Easter)
Shoulder of Mutton Pie served with Jersey Royals and Chargrilled Tender stem Broccoli
Blue Cheese and Asparagus Pie served with Jersey Royals and Chargrilled Tender stem Broccoli (V)
Chocolate and Salted Caramel Pot
Chateau Baron Bellevue Cotes de Bourg, Bordeaux, France 2014 £13.99
A predominantly Merlot (80%) Bordeaux with 15% Cabernet Sauvignon & 5% Cabernet Franc. No insecticides are used on the vines, a third of which are over 30 years old. The wine is then aged for 18 months in barrels. The result is ripe and spicy with bramble flavours. A perfect accompaniment for both pies on offer, this evening.
Week 4 – 9th April
Lebanese Spiced Pulled Pork with Gnocchi
Roast Chicken with Preserved Lemons
Ricotta and Oregano Meatballs (V)
Fried Cauliflower with Pine Nuts Capers and Chilli (VG)
Watermelon, Green Apple & Lime Salad
Roast Asparagus, Almonds, Capers and Dill
Pitta with a selection of dips; Harissa Houmous, Cinnamon Labneh, Black Olive Tapenade
Blueberry, Almond and Lemon Cake
Waterkloof Circle of Life, Stellenbosch, S. Africa, 2016 £13.99
This delightful South African white wine, biodynamically farmed, as well as being suitable for vegans, will complement the Tapas dishes on offer nicely. A blend of Sauvignon Blanc (67%), Chenin Blanc (29%) and Semillon (4%), this complex, full bodied wine has peach notes on the nose with citrus and lemon flavours on the palate. Although it has a mineral core there is a delightful creamy middle feel. The grapes are aged on the lees for 10 months prior to blending giving plenty of structure.
Of course, if you, like me, prefer a red, this is the perfect opportunity to open one from Lebanon:
Domaine des Tourelles Vieilles Vignes Carignan, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon 2018, £19.99
We have an organic traditional Lebanese wine from one of the longest and most highly acclaimed wineries in the Bekaa Valley. Made from vines which are more than 50 years old, this exotic, full flavoured wine has notes of ripe red fruits, liquorice, dark chocolate, and fig.
Week 5 – 16th April
Coq au Vin, Olive Oil Mash and Spring Greens
Stuffed Courgette, Olive Oil Mash and Spring Greens
Genetie Bourgogne Pinot Noir Illumine, Burgundy, France £18.99
A red burgundy with excellent purity of fruit, and balance. It is elegant with red cherry aromas and a palate of wild strawberry and ripe fruit flavours. Medium bodied and fresh, it is a perfect match with the Coq au vin.
Week 6 – 23rd April
Beef Stroganoff and Wild Rice
Wild Mushroom and Rice
Darling Cellars Old Bush Cinsault, Darling, S. Africa 2018, £16.99
An intriguing aroma of sour red cherries and candy floss leads to a moreish palate which displays rich-fruit, forest floor and white pepper. Very popular with customers here at The Wine Centre. Produced from 38 year old vines, matured 22 months in oak.
Week 7 – 30th April (bank holiday weekend)
Lamb Kofta with Tzatziki
Lemon and Thyme Chicken
Fillet of Seabass Skewers with Chimichurri
Cumin Spiced Courgette, Pepper and Halloumi Kebab
Corn on the Cob with a choice of butter; chilli butter, garlic butter or marmite butter
New York Baked Cheesecake
Zuccardi Brazos de los Andes Malbec, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina 2018, £11.99
This an easy-going Malbec from fruit grown high up in the Uco, full of blackcurrants and plums. The perfect BBQ party red to go with Luke`s bank holiday feast. Enjoy!
A better match with the Seabass Skewer and Lemon and Thyme Chicken Fillet is this one:
Tirecul La Graviere Ulma Bergerac SW France 2018, £13.99
New to The Wine Centre is this little beauty from SW France. Better known for its sweet wine, Monbazillac, this is a dry white with fruit salad characteristics, made from a mixed bag of organically grown grapes, of Semillon, Muscadelle, Chenin and Sauvignon Blanc. Oh joy!
Week 8 – 7th May
Traditional Pork Souvlaki
Barbecued Seabream with Lemon & Parsley Oil
Courgette & Halloumi Fritters
Served with Sesame Flatbreads, Tzatzkiki & Melitzanosalata
Baby Leaf Salad
Salad of Olives, Feta, Red Onion, Tomato, Cucumber & Mint
Savatiano Old Vines, Greece, 2018, 75cl, £15.99
A great white wine with fresh fennel and floral aromas leading onto a broad peachy palate with lemon and herbal characters. The wine is textural with a crisp, citrus-tinged, yet balanced finish.
Week 9 – 14th May
Chermoula Prawns with Calamari, Tomatoes and Avocado
Shakshuka – Meatball and Egg Tagine
Bakoula Feta and Pine Nut Pies
Aubergine & Pumpkin Tagine w/ caramelised Onions
A medley of Moroccan Salad
Week 10 – 21st May
Scandinavian Chicken and Rice Salad
Crispy Sliced Lemon Hasselback Potatoes
Roast Beetroot with Soured Cream Hazelnuts and Dill
Accompanied by A selection of Pickled Vegetables; Carrot, Fennel, Radish and Cucumber
Week 11 – 28th May (bank holiday weekend)
Cuttlefish with Garlic and Parsley
Garlic Shrimp with Wine and Saffron
Fried Cod with Garlic Aioli
Aubergine Rolls with Feta
Potato Tortilla Squares
Asparagus with Egg and Capers
Green Leaf Salad