Let`s assume you are having a dinner party – the sort of evening you put on your nice chinos and get out the best cutlery, maybe even light some pretty candles; as opposed to a barbecue or a casual supper. These are the special occasions which provide us with opportunities to open fine wines. This is theatre now, where the decanter and fish-bowl size glasses are at home. In preparation for such events many of our customers come to us to be advised on the most suitable wines for the occasion, and it`s not unusual for us to go through entire menus, with dish-by-dish recommendations. Here now I will provide some brief insight into the thought process behind matching wine with food.
So, in the first place we naturally draw from our own personal experiences, but also there is the benchmark, long-established matches – the so-called marriages in heaven: Oysters with Chablis, etc. We`ll get to these in future weeks. But menus don`t always have obvious wine choices and this is where it gets to be fun – where off-the-map food combinations require deduction and best-guess analyses. So here`s my approach: First, I consider the food in weight terms and I aim approximately for equilibrium – a light dish with a heavy wine will be overpowered. Yet by the same token a light, yet fervent dish – with a certain spice or flavour intensity – will require a light but equally intense, vibrant wine. A benchmark example of this is light, spicy Thai with light, dry (or off-dry) Riesling. The zesty acidity of the white wine quells the spice. A richer dish will correspondingly be more suited to a richer wine: Lobster risotto with Chardonnay, Viognier or Albariño, for example.
Another approach to matching like for like is matching by contrasting – often explosive taste sensations, for example pitching sweet wine against the savoury salt of cheese. Port with stilton still one of our favourites… happy days…
The Wine Centre, Great Horkesley Opening hours 10am to 6.30pm Monday to Saturday. Telephone 01206 271 236 , email firstname.lastname@example.org
We enjoyed an excellent evening with bubbly guest speaker Tom Grundy and chef Tony Bell in scintillating form. Best wine of the evening, for me, was the suave Vasse Felix Chardonnay which went beautifully with Tony`s Confit of salmon loin. All the wine/food matches were precision perfect, except arguably (for me) the Viognier with Sunbeam tomato dish; both wine and dish delicious, but together a slight jar. The best wine/food match difficult to choose, but in my book by a nose it was the beautiful Picnic Pinot Noir with mushroom and pastry savoury … my that was good. Thanks everyone for coming and for contributing to what was a great fun and gloriously indulgent evening. Notes and menu to follow:
Guest speaker: Tom Grundy – Host: Anthony Borges –
Chef: Tony Bell
Jansz Premium Cuvée, aperitif £18.99
Tasmania, Australia, NV
A rich, biscuity Champagne-alternative from the coolest part of the country. Comes in a great box!
Pewsey Vale Riesling £15.99
Eden Valley, Australia, 2015
The very first vineyard planted in the Eden Valley, in 1847. Very fine, classic, dry, mineral Aussie Riesling
Nautilus Sauvignon Blanc £15.99
Marlborough, New Zealand, 2015
Very good example of what Marlborough is best at – lean, zingy Sauvignon with herbaceous tang
Yalumba Y Series Viognier 11.99
South Australia, 2015
Delightful peachy-flavoured wine, floral and beguiling
Vasse Felix Chardonnay 2014, £24.99
Margaret River, Australia, 2014
One of the most elegant Chardonnays of Australia. Very fine citrusy poise. Long, long after-taste. Delicious!
Two Paddocks `Picnic` Pinot Noir, Central Otago, £28.99
Central Otago, New Zealand, 2014
Delicate, aromatic and berry-scented Pinot from the most southerly growing region in the world. Superb with the mushroom.
Vasse Felix ‘Filius’ Cabernet Merlot £18.99
Margaret River, Australia, 2014
Elegant, classic Margaret River. Stylish wine and a terric choice with the beef.
Victoria Park Shiraz Viognier, £10.99
South Australia, 2014
Rich, plummy Shiraz lightened by a dash of aromatic Viognier
Running With Bulls Tempranillo, South Australia £11.99
South Australia, 2014
Generous, moreish Spanish grape grown Down Under. Hugely popular our end of the table.
Lime and ginger marinade twice cooked pork belly, ‘pickled’ cabbage
Chilli-roasted feta, watermelon, oregano dressing
Sunbeam tomatoes, dry roasted cumin and herbed scented ricotta, balsamic glaze
Confit of salmon loin, green gazpacho
Sweet soy braised beef, mango & sesame salad
When choosing a wine to go with a particular dish some consideration should duly be given to the protein on the plate – the meat or fish. It is the central component and important. However, it is rarely served alone so to consider it in isolation would be wrong. A dish might be highly seasoned, or the sauce (the jus) might be light and fresh or rich and sweet. The vegetables might be fresh, roasted and/or honey-glazed. It can be a busy plate or a simple one. With simple Chicken Caesar Salad I like a decent Chardonnay, for example. On the other hand Coq au Vin (with its red wine sauce) without a Rhone red wouldn`t be Coq au Vin at all, and with Chardonnay would be plain wrong. So consider the dish as a whole when you are choosing your matching wine for supper, and avoid wines which will likely over power the dish, or be overpowered. Your merchant will help you choose, naturally. The next choice is whether to follow the main course with a desert and finish with the cheeses, or to follow the main with the cheeses and finish the evening with desert. This is the French way, and I prefer it. Sticking with the savoury until the end gives more scope for wine-drinking continuity; no reason at all why you can`t finish off the same dry white you have been enjoying with the sea bass, it is likely to go as well with the cheeses as any red. Additionally you might bring forward the sweet wine you have chosen for desert and enjoy the contrasting sensation of its sweet taste next to the salt in the cheese. It can be explosive on the palate and joyous. Happy days…
The Wine Centre, Great Horkesley Opening hours 10am to 6.30pm Monday to Saturday. Telephone 01206 271 236 , email email@example.com
Our first wine-tasting dinner of the new year on the 45th President of the USA
s inaugural evening, with, ironically, Pol Rogers Winston Churchill in the line up! The evening was a great success (our evening, I mean; no doubt Mr Trump enjoyed his too). The aforementioned WC Champagne was indeed a highlight, but for me one of several. For example, the aperitif Pol Roger Reserve I found thrilling – in part, possibly, because it was my first drink of the year and boy was I ready for it! But no, as NV Champagnes go it
s definitely up there with the best of them, a delicious drop no question. The wildcard of the evening came next with Tonys crab risotto and I loved that too. In fact, penny for penny quite possibly the best wine of the evening in value terms. Truly I loved it: orchard aromas leap from the glass; one I look forward to again. But for me every wine on the evening was singing – all exemplary and the food matching superbly. Oh what fun… what a great start to 2017. My thanks to our guests and to Tony Bell who did a great job of the food and to the charming George Prideaux who was both informing and entertaining.
Guest speaker, George Prideaux (Pol Roger), chef Tony Bell & host Anthony Borges
- Pol Roger Brut Reserve NV, £43.99, £39.59 – aperitif
33% Pinot Noir 34% Chardonnay 33% Pinot Meunier – a blend of 30 still base wines from villages throughout Champagne. Aged in cellars for 3.5 to 4 years before released. Very fine and elegant.
2. Josmeyer Pinot Blanc `Mise du Printemps` 2015 £18.99, £16.75
The grapes are harvested by hand and are exclusively from organic and bio-dynamic farming. Clean crisp and fresh wine with lovely balanced acidity.
3. Chablis, Drouhin-Vaudon 2014, £18.99, £16.75
This is an unoaked elegant wine. Typical Chablis nose, where aromas of citrus (lemon) and even salty sensations predominate. On the palate: vigorous and lively, but in a soft mode. A lot of finesse and balance.
- Pol Roger `Winston Churchill` 2004 £155.00, £139.00
The Prestige Cuvée was created in homage to Sir Winston Churchill. it is undeniable that the composition would meet with the approval of the man to whom it is dedicated: “My tastes are simple, I am easily satisfied with the best”
- Fleurie `Hospices de Belleville` 2014 £18.99, £16.75
Boasting a pretty ruby, violet colour, the wine begins by expressing floral notes of violet, rose, with a typical peppery note which then evolves into red fruits. The mouthfeel is smooth and silky with soft tannins.
Côte de Beaune Rouge Joseph Drouhin 2014, £33.99, £29.99
12 to 15 month oak ageing (10% new) a true delight and a great harmony! Delicate and fruity aromas such as strawberry and red currant. On the palate, the tannins are refined and lend a nice roundness to the body.
- Rosso di Montalcino, Biondi-Santi 2012, £36.99, £33.00
The Rosso di Montalcino White Label comes from the younger Sangiovese vineyards (between 5 and 10 years old). The wine is aged for 12 months in Slavonian oak casks and it is a wine which is released ready to drink, with a young and fruity profile.
- Braccale IGT Toscana 2012, £20.99, £18.75
Produced with 80% Sangiovese and 20% Merlot from the South-west facing vineyards of Scansano, with vines aged 10-15 years. Matured for 10 months in French Barriques of Troncais wood.
- Crown Estates Aszu 5 Puttonyos 5, 2000 (50cl) £34.99, £29.50
The wine is deep yellow gold with an intense nose with impressive perfume and richness. Beautifully balanced with acidity, a blend of 50% Furmint & 50% Hárslevelü.
Prawns ‘home boiled’ with mayonnaise
Scallops, salmon medallion, leek cream
Slow reared poached chicken, celery, porcini reduction, black truffle infusion
Chocolate marmalade ‘slump’ pudding
The `snack` and `aperitif` moment – when you get home from work or when the guests first arrive, provides for the best ever wine and food moment, in my mind. Slightly touched by fatigue, hunger and thirst, it can provide relief and thrill simultaneously – and a good match will be delicious and even celebratory. Here are a few of my favourites: `Snyder`s of Hanover` – served with the popular white burgundy Macon-Charnay “Clos-Saint-Pierre”. The salt and the crunch of the pretzel with the golden yellow liquid is intensely satisfying. Another is the roasted and salted `Hider Jumbo Peanuts` , explosive on the palate with the white Rhone “La Fleur Solitaire”, still a best seller here. And there again, there are the Tomato & Basil Mini Breadsticks, being our choice with Vintage Champagne when the occasion warrants it – the acidity of the Champagne offset neatly by the crisp breadstick. It`s just perfect. Of course, there are a thousand such snacks, but with no more effort you might reach for the fridge instead. Ours, in the shop, is full of goodies. Pinney`s of Orford smoked salmon with our Alsace Hugel Riesling, the smoked prawns with Billaud-Simon Chablis – true, they are a bit messy, but guests love getting stuck in, and provided you have a finger bowl…. The smoked fish paté works well served on our Peter`s Yard sourdough crispbreads with pear slices and watercress . With these dainties our Cuvee Jean Paul `house` wine is as good as any, pleasantly dry and crisp. Or a pale, dry Rosé instead, possibly – such as our Pasquiers.
Other occasions require a red at the start of the evening, when white or rosé just won`t cut it. Charcuterie works for me with a flavourful light red, such as our Vieux Quartier Bourgogne Rouge. Even better Pinney`s smoked duck with Allegrini`s Valpollicella. So many thrills .. why not pop into the shop to taste a few for yourselves tomorrow between 11am and 1pm?
The Wine Centre, Great Horkesley
Opening hours 10am to 6.30pm Monday to Saturday.
Telephone 01206 271 236 , email firstname.lastname@example.org
For the first time tickets for our last dinner of the year were bought outright for a private party, a very special 40th birthday. Thanks Ben for choosing to have your celebration with us. We enjoyed enormously the company of your friends. My thanks to Derek Langton of Moet Hennessey, our guest speaker, and to Tony Bell our chef. What a thoroughly fantastic and memorable evening it was. Not least to meet, at last, Veuve Cliquot`s La Grande Dame…! Tasting notes and menu listed below:
Guest speaker: Derek Langton – Host: Anthony Borges –
Chef: Tony Bell –
Veuve Cliquot Champagne, £45.99 (Magnum: £99.00)
Veuve Clicquot ages their non-vintage for almost twice the required time, resulting in a superb marriage of freshness and power, with rich fruit and a mouth-filling mousse. The result, a distinctive golden-yellow Champagne with a bead of tiny bubbles and a bouquet of white peach, dried fruits, vanilla, toast and brioche; on the palate a symphony of fruit tastes and spices, delicious to the end. Traditionally, the proportion of each grape variety used is 50 to 55% Pinot Noir, 15 to 20% Pinot Meunier and 28 to 33% Chardonnay, with up to 40% being drawn from the Reserve wine.
Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough NZ 2016, £24.99
A pale wine with a vibrant, aromatic mix of orange blossom intermingled with lemon, lime and nectarine fruits. The palate is brimming with ripe citrus and stone fruit flavours that are framed by a sleek and succulent acid architecture.
Newton Unfiltered Chardonnay, Ca USA 2014, £43.99
A truly great Chardonnay with depth to its yellow colour. The nose is intense, focused and complex: pink grapefruit, fresh fig and pear aromas are enhanced by elements of spice and vanilla, contributing additional depth and intrigue. Flavours of lemon curd, marzipan and white peach evolve in the mouth, enlivened by beautifully balanced natural acidity.
Veuve Cliquot La Grande Dame Champagne 2006, £128.00
La Grande Dame 2006 is an exclusive blend of eight classic Grands Crus: Aÿ, Bouzy, Ambonnay, Verzy and Verzenay for the Pinot Noir (53%); Avize, Oger and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger for the Chardonnay (47%). A golden colour with a bead of tiny bubbles, the initial nose reveals a saline, mineral background, then floral notes (acacia), notes of fresh fruit (peach, pear) and finally toasted notes (hazelnut, roasted almonds). When agitated, the bouquet becomes rich and voluptuous, with notes of ginger, brioche, nougat and preserved lemon. In the mouth, it is plump and full of substance. The texture is crisp and silky. The minerality of the chalk resonates brightly with the fleshy structure and contributes to the length of finish. The end note is fresh and generous, hinting at a discreet dosage followed by a long period of post-disgorgement aging, Enjoy now until 2025.
Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir, Marlborough New Zealand 2014, £33.99
This translucent cherry-coloured red has a wondrous bouquet of roses and violets, leading to ripe berry fruit, dark cherry and luscious plum. Structurally, the wine is seamless. The palate is concentrated and framed with ripe silky tannins and complex notes of spicy oak and herbs. A beautiful wine, it is long, fleshy and lithe.
Newton Unfiltered Merlot, California USA 2012, £43.99
A truly lovely red. The aromas of this delectable Merlot are redolent of ripe blueberries and Satsuma plums with hints of violet, mocha and mint. Dark, plush and savory with black fruit
flavors, it is richly textured with a firm structure. The long finish is round and warm
with toasted cedar, mocha and roasted coffee bean flavours.
Terrazas “Las Compuertas” Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina 2011, £48.99
This Single Vineyard reveals a ripe, fresh character. The nose delivers notes of violets, menthol and liquorice combined with dark fruits such as blackberry and dark cherry. On the palate it is dark, spicy and lively with finely-grained silky tannins. 18 – 20 months French oak barrel aging has added complexity.
Newton The Puzzle, California USA 2012, £68.00
The perfume of cedar, juniper, tar and oak mingle with dark fruit, chocolate
and plum aromas on the nose. On the palate this wine is inky with anise, dark mocha, plum and cassis flavours that are supported by fine tannins. Dark fruit flavours linger on the long finish. The Halloween wine of the evening, dark and brooding…
Terrazas Los Andes Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina 2014, £18.99
We felt we couldn`t finish the evening on a dark note on such an evening, so we bring you this super, refreshing Malbec, juicy with violet and cherry characteristics so typical of this elegant, ever popular wine.
Prawn ‘nori’, asparagus and tomato concasse
Cube of wild Keta salmon ‘gravlax’
Portobello mushroom, hazelnut crumble
Autumn palette of game, field and orchard
Dark chocolate & orange pot – served with Ben`s favourite Glen Morangie The Quinta Ruban 12 YO (matured in Bourbon casks, finished in port casks)
Truly, every dish was superb, the palette of game joyous! Brilliant job, Tony
Quick blog by Anthony Borges
I had a `moment` in the shop yesterday. It reminded me of just how food can influence wine, and vice versa….
Of course I know this only too well – we demonstrate this week in and week out at The Wine Centre with our cheeseboards, deli platters, canapés and four-course Friday night dinners. Promoting the enjoyment of wine and food, together, is our raison d`etre. It`s why so many of our customers come to us with recipes, so we can advise on the best wines to match. More of us are entertaining friends at home than ever before, or so it would seem, with more people than ever requiring dish by dish pairings to show both food and wine in the most favourable light. We help them avoid unpleasant clashes but much more than that, we recommend wines which will add significantly to the food experience – where both wine and food brighten noticeably. One of my favourite examples of this is our Golden Cross goat`s cheese with the ever popular Touraine-Oisly from the Loire Valley in France. Both lovely – together, stupendous. Another is a little known but wonderful Loire Valley red, our Saumur “La Cabriole”, with charcuterie. In future blogs I will be making plenty of food and wine recommendations for you to try at home.
But back to where I started. It was in the shop and I hadn`t spotted my wife putting out a new sweet chilli salsa dip (oblivious to my choice of wines and cheeses). Customers were tucking in when one, more loudly than necessary, I felt, emitted a yuck noise (along with exaggerated screwed up face). It wasn`t the hot salsa – it was the golden Chardonnay he had been enjoying with the Epoisses cheese, turned sour suddenly by the hot sauce. An easy mistake….
I`m fond of the expression “Life`s too short to drink cheap wine”, but I`m also a realist. I recognise we all have our price. When it comes to having a party some of you will head off to France to fill your boots, others to Aldi. I get that. While at it you can pick up the BOGOF Stella lager and frozen burgers, what`s not to like? A lot of people think of wine as just another drink and they`ll buy it for the lowest price possible. Serve your fizz cold and what does it matter if it doesn`t have flavour, right? When you are inviting half the village no-one would blame you. Others will buy the cheapest Champagne – no matter if a Cava at half the price is better, so long as it has Champagne on the label. Okay, I get that too – it gives your party kudos to serve Champagne, fair enough. A few thirst-quenching glasses will deliver the same titillating effect as any other. Moreover, most supermarkets will even lend you the glasses for your party nowadays – they will be pretty basic glasses but dish-washer friendly, so a result, right?
OR, you can do better than that. You can give your guests wine and food they will enjoy. You can throw a party with style. You can go to the local butchers and buy real meat; and you can come to us for all your other party requirements! Most important of all, we can get the wines right. We can help you choose what`s right for you and you can bring back what you don`t use. As for beer, we offer the usual, but also specialty beer, and poly pins of real ale which are always a party treat. And you can borrow decent glasses free of charge so drinking feels good and the wines are shown in the best possible light. We work with some great caterers too; and we have some great tips to help your party go with a swing. So we really are a one-stop shop for parties in every sense. If you are local and having a party call us on 01206 271 236, opening hours 10am-6.30pm Monday to Saturday.
My absolute perfect Rosé wine is the glass at 6.45pm after cashing up, with a handful of salted nuts. The accumulated day`s stresses start to ebb away in anticipation of the moment as I pop the cork (or snap the cap). The whiff of the wine is stimulating, my hunger now peaked; then comes the first thirst-quenching mouthful, followed by the salty tang and creamy, crunch of the peanuts. It`s a great moment, and I repeat it immediately. Salt and wine contrast explosively, which is why it`s so delicious. My favourite style of Rosé for the occasion is pale salmon-pink in colour and dry, almost certainly French. Our Pasquier Rosé from Languedoc always hits the spot at £7.99 per bottle; even better, the bone dry, slightly peppery wines of Provence, such as Rimauresque Cru Classé, £14.99, or the legendary Whispering Angel, £18.99.
Another of this ilk, without the peppery quality (which suits some) is Sancerre Rosé, produced with Pinot Noir grapes. I recommend ours, by Fernand Girard, for £15.99. Yet another, produced locally (near Long Melford) is Giffords Hall, a blend of Rondo and Madeleine Angevine grapes – impressive in magnum format at £33.00.
But there are all shades, from pale onion, through various depths of salmon, to deep red cherry and even orange. We have a wondrous display in the shop at the moment.
It would be a mistake to ignore entirely the Rosé wines with deep-colour. We have them, currently, from Chile, Spain, Italy, New Zealand and Lebanon. These wines are fruitier, sometimes emphatically juicy, and they can be truly delicious on a hot summer`s day. The only ones I`m not keen on are the sweeter style Zinfandel Rosé wines. I find them a little confectionery, like boiled sweets. We stock two (I Heart, £6.99, and Beringer, £9.99) because customers demand I do so. Live and let live I say.
My wine of the week, available to taste, is a rare deep-coloured Rosé from Lebanon! Musar Jeune, produced from 100% Cinsault grapes grown in Bekaa Valley, £12.99 per bottle.
In Colchester we have a fantastic range of ethnic restaurants at our disposal: Lebanese, Mexican, Chinese, Thai, Vietnamese, Greek, Indian, Nepalese, Japanese, Turkish… if I have missed one, I`d be glad to learn of it. I consider we are truly blessed – to be in a position to experience such a variety of food cultures, just a walk or a short taxi ride away. We are very, very lucky. Yet – if I may be so bold as to make an observation – too few of these wonderful restaurants sell decent wine. For me (and for a lot of people, I know) this is a huge shame and an untapped opportunity. It`s all the more disappointing for the high quality of food served in these establishments.
Just recently we had a family meal at a Lebanese restaurant in town – a falafels and hummus starter followed by spicy lamb kebab with saffron rice. It was stupendous. All it required was a decent Pinotage and it would have been 10/10. Alas, the wine was poor. Boring. The patron had opted for cheap wine which tasted bland – the complete opposite of their wonderful cuisine. It`s such a crying shame. The quality of wine is important and so is the selection of wine offered. With the diverse, fascinating dishes on offer there is scope for thrilling wine and food pairings which would be a wine and food lover`s dream ticket.
Here`s an idea: a good many of these restaurants offer takeaway. Why not enjoy the food at home with a decent bottle from us! Our last take out was from the Naka Thai in East Hill, a first class choice. We had their set meal with our Paul Cluver Village Pinot Noir (a beauty for £13.99) and it was magic. Go on, treat yourselves…